1995 F150 4x4 Big Bird Tribute

Discussion in 'Shop - Builds' started by Junior, Mar 6, 2017.

  1. Junior

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    For the rear pivot we upgraded to fabricated units we got from Threat Motorsports...a longer shackle which improves travel as well as lowering ride height. These images compare the fabricated shackle with the OEM unit. Mucho beef! Shackle 1.jpg Shackle 2.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2017
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  3. Junior

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  4. Junior

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    20160627_100228 (Small).jpg
    Threat also provided these beef shackle pivot points made to locate in the stock position if desired. We plan on mounting them back an inch or two to help promote a smooth swing throughout rear travel.
     
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2017
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  5. Junior

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    Installation of the front leaf pivots was a no brainer. Here is the OEM set up when we started.

    OEM front pivot.jpg
     
  6. Junior

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    Something about new parts and hardware that gets the blood pumping. Remember, this is an OEM pivot or hangar from a 4x2 F150.

    Rear Pivot New.jpg
     
  7. Junior

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    On the rear, we decided to move that sweet shackle hangar we got from Threat Motorsports back just over an inch to allow for a smoother cycle through the travel. First we had to address the OEM mounting holes leaving us a clean slate for mounting it where we wanted.
    Plates.jpg

    Plates glued on.jpg

    Plates glued on 2.jpg

    Plates all done.jpg
     
  8. Junior

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  9. Junior

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    Next we plated a portion of the frame rail to better support the bump stop. We plan to use progressive bumps we got from our friends at ORW. We will need to fab a bump stop extension as well.

    Bump Frame Plating.jpg Bump Frame Plating 2.jpg
     
  10. Junior

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    Check out the progressive bumps. Due to the lift and travel of the new suspension, cycling revealed we had to move the bump back a bit. We did this with the bump extension. Extensive cycling the system ensured that this re-located bump at full squish kept the leafs from achieving the dreaded negative arch that can kill a set of leafs in no time.

    Bumps and Ext.jpg

    Wyatt wanted to add strength, reduced weight and pulled more chicks with these bump stop extensions so we hit up our buddy "Chuck of the North" to implement a few dimples!

    Bump Ext 2.jpg

    Bump Ext 3.jpg

    Bump Ext 4.jpg

    Bump Ext 5.jpg
     
  11. Junior

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    Time to get Big Bird 2 (BB2) rolling on its own feet. We kicked the stock 8.8 axle to the curb and are pushing in the standard of the prerunner industry a Ford 9 inch. We'll use the third member with 4.11 gears and a locker out of Junior's Bronco Prerunner along with a housing out of a 1984 F150 donor truck. First we had to clean up the housing removing OEM brackets and spring perches.

    Nine Inch.jpg

    Remove brackets 1.jpg

    Remove brackets 2.jpg

    Remove brackets 3.jpg

    Remove brackets 4.jpg

    Remove brackets 5.jpg
     
  12. Junior

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    Time to hang the Nine!

    Hanging the 9.jpg

    Hanging the 9 two.jpg
     
  13. Junior

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    Its a ROLLER! Checkout how cool that restored fuel tank looks....

    Its a roller 1.jpg

    Tuco Approves.

    Its a roller 2.jpg
     
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  14. Junior

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    Next up is the bedcage. Our plan is to construct a bedcage that not only acts as mounts for our shocks and the spare but provides for holding Wyatt's dirtbike in place with ease and maybe even some secure place to put a couple of fuel jugs. In order to allow for maximum width between the runners, we built off the side of the frame rails being careful not to interfere with the leafs at full smash. (part of the cycling process) First the mounts....

    Bedcage mounts.jpg

    Bedcage mounts 2.jpg

    Bedcage mounts 3.jpg
     
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  15. Junior

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    We want the bedcage to roughly match the bedsides and to fit in an optimum manner all around. The bedspace is important to a high school kid that will be taking his dirtbike and gear all over.

    Bedcage 1.jpg

    Bedcage 2.jpg

    Bedcage 3.jpg

    Bedcage 4.jpg
     
  16. Junior

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    You will notice that the bed is on and off, and the spring pack is full then only a couple leafs throughout the progress of this build. Doing it right required that we remove and replace the bed constantly it seems. Most important thought is cycling everything, measure and cycle again. Lots of work but pays off in the end with no questions as to how things will work when finished.

    Bedcage 5.jpg

    Bedcage 6.jpg

    Bedcage 7.jpg
    You can see the lower shock mounts we installed as part of the leaf clamp down dealio. We will need this to help determine the location of the upper shock mount on the bedcage. Under the two leafs you can see a block of wood (appears white) necessary to simulate the full width of the leaf pack for cycling purposes. Almost impossible to cycle an assembled pack so it has to be stripped down to just a couple leafs.

    Bedcage 8.jpg

    Bedcage 9.jpg
     
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  17. Junior

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    We used a piece of electrical conduit to help us determine the upper shock mount location along the bedcage rail. We drilled a hole in one end of the conduit and bolted it into the lower shock mount position, found what we wanted then drilled the tube and inserted a mounting bung of sorts tapered for this purpose.

    BC shock mounts 1.jpg

    BC shock mounts 2.jpg

    BC shock mounts 3.jpg
     
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  18. Junior

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    Now for the tricky part...locating exactly where to cut the bed open for the rear shock to come through. We only want to remove material necessary so this is how we did it. First we took that piece of conduit and mounted it to the top mount and cut it little by little until it appeared at a careful glance to point right at the lower shock mount, then marked where it was meeting the bed.

    BC shock mounts 4.jpg

    BC shock mounts 5.jpg

    BC shock mounts 6.jpg

    After we cut the hole in the bed, we ran a bungy cord between the upper and lower mount. The cord ran right through the middle of the hole. A miracle! Figured we would have to trim it a bit a least. Of course when we get to mounting the shocks we will have to expand this hole as needed.

    BC shock mounts 7.jpg
     
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  19. Junior

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    Since we had to take the bed on and off a couple dozen times during this process, we took the opportunity to finish up the restore and reinstall of the fuel storage and pumping system. The tanks looked sweet after we painted them, installed the new pumps and got them back into the chassis....

    Completed fuel tanks 2.jpg

    Completed fuel tanks.jpg

    We had to put fuel inside the tanks after install to ensure pumps were functional and to provide weight to help with cycling and to give us proper ride height for locating the spring perches. We set them at very close to OEM pinion angle.
     
  20. Junior

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    We were a bit shocked to learn during tear down the the OEM fuel system allowed for tank venting by using a fuel hose strapped on top of the tank, completely open ended, no filter or anything. We purchased these cool screened vents for each tank. We will run the vent hoses up the bedcage a bit to keep it in the fresh air. These are designed to be used with a tab. No check ball is necessary, the OEM tank venting plug has a roll-over valve already. Going to use these to vent the front and rear diff as well.

    Fuel tank venting.jpg
    Fuel tank venting 2.jpg
     
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  21. Junior

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    Access to OEM in-tank fuel pumps is impossible without removing the bed. Thinking ahead, we cut out an access hole so we can at least get to the rear tank pump. Not possible to do this with the midship tank due to its location.

    Rear tank pump access.jpg

    Rear tank access 2.jpg

    Rear tank access 3.jpg

    As an access door, we used a piece of bed from another truck. Always keep donor truck stuff around, no matter how much your wife disagrees!

    Rear tank access 4.jpg
     
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