"Gumby" The 67 F100 Prerunner

philofab

New Member
I picked this up last Monday.

67 Ford F100
351 Cleveland 2V
C6 with bolt on yoke
4 linked
9" rear end
Reinforced beams
Extended radius arms
Large aluminum fuel tank
37" BFG Projects
17" Robby Gordon beadlocks
Wilwood rear brakes
Art Carr Shifter
80s Bronco center console
1.75" bed cage
1.5" interior cage
Dual Batteries

Just a simple sorta old school prerunner.

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philofab

New Member
I put a quick hitch on it so I can move empty trailers between locations.

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Also installed some new tires... upgraded to Toyo 39" race tires. The truck drives sooo much smoother now. Going to have to convert to a full floater and put bigger brakes on it soon.

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Got some beam pivots and radius arm pivots from Ryan Piggott / Dezline Fabrication. Now I just need to find some 1" kingpin beams (I think mine are 7/8) and some 1 ton spindles with the "bolt on" caliper mounts. Once I have that I can put together a 13" rotor brake package for the front and build some radius arms.
 

philofab

New Member
Started building an exhaust... I was lucky as all of the bolts came out of the exhaust manifolds without issue. The headers that came with the truck are for a 351M (Clevelands were never offered in trucks) and were supposed to fit, the do not. The driver side fits ok but the passenger hits the starter and frame. Going to fit a later model gear reduction starter and attempt to clearance the transmission, headers, and frame.


Going to do a shakedown at the Fast Aid poker run and DD it to work for a while then prerun the 500 with it.

Still need to:

Finish exhaust
Install cam/lifters/intake
Install Fast EFI
Install GPS
Install radio
Install two new batteries
Install temp front shocks or convert to coilover
Install 5 point belts (has only lap belts now)
Upgrade alternator to late model 3G style
Install some offroad lights
Install some gauges
Install rear facing amber
Have fun!
 

philofab

New Member
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First, got the headers on, it was quite a chore. The manifolds came right off without a issue but it appears the engine is about 2" forward of stock. This required the crossmember on the right side to be trimmed quite a bit. Moving the engine back would require transmission crossmember modification and drive line shortening, so that idea wasn't feasible at the moment.

Second, I also installed a late model PMGR starter to create clearance and improve reliability. When the truck get rewired I will remove the firewall mounted solenoid.

Last, I replaced the springs in the door hinges as one was worn out and the other non existent.

Soon I will start running tubing back and create an X pipe or H pipe to connect the dual exhaust. Driveline, crossmember, and other items make the X pipe unlikely.
 

philofab

New Member
Been working my butt off trying to get this thing ready for the Fast Aid Poker Run this weekend in Parker.

Just received a ton of stuff from my friends at SDHQ Offroad just in time to get installed on this thing. Got a Lowerance Point 1 Baja antenna for my Globalmap 7300CHD, two fire extinguishers, two extinguisher mounts, Mastercraft 5 point belts, and a Pro Eagle Jack and mount.

Exhaust is almost done, been mounting a Motorola Maratrac radio, Lowrance GPS, fire extinguishers, and making sure cables and hoses are all secured away from hot and spiny things.

Right now I am waiting on some brackets my friend Ray at Rayzor Sharp CNC Plasmacuts is making for me.

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philofab

New Member
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Installed a new pair of Deka Intimidator batteries, Motorola Maratrac radio, Vertex 4200, and GPS wiring.

The Maratrac was having a squelch issue so I installed the Vertex as a backup. I will eventually mount it in the dash in the DIN slot. The spot behind the console is just temporary for this weekend. The battery hold downs are also temp until the machined pieces show up.

Next up is to order some sound deadening material for the interior. Leaning toward FatMat right now.
 

philofab

New Member
Put about 250 dirt miles on the truck this weekend at the Fast Aid poker run. No issues other than the hood pins came loose! Whoever installed them didn't use lock nuts or weld the bottom nut to the tab on the radiator support. Due to this the hood popped up while I was doing about 60MPH on a power line road... a pucker moment to say the least. Surprisingly the hood was not damaged, just the hood hinges.

I had a great time and now I have a solid list of what needs to be addressed before I use it to prerun the 500.

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philofab

New Member
Little update on Gumby...

I bent the drive line due to an interference issue with a carrier bearing mount that was never removed. I dropped the drive line off at Adam's Driveshaft in Las Vegas to get it repaired and a spare made. Unfortunately it has 1310 joints so the spare will have to wait until I get the yoke changed out as I'd like to upgrade to 1350 joints with a companion flange on the rear end. I declined on upgrading at this point since I plan to use the truck in Mexico next week. Upgrades normally take longer than expected and if anything deviated from plan I'd miss my target date. Adam's is going to retube the driveline and install solid u-joints (no zerk) for me.

I also plan to replace the front beams with 1" Kingpin units and upgrade the rear to a full floater. After thinking about it, I plan to install 3/4 ton front hubs and a Corporate 14 bolt rear end from a van. The rear end will pretty much be plug and play minus putting a spool in it and 70" WMS to WMS. After the spool, disk brakes, and shaving the bottom I don't think I'll be far off a built 9" weight wise. This will also allow me to share spare wheels and tires with my Dodge.

Some sound deadening showed up today so I am going to work on quieting the inside of the cab down a bit.
 

philofab

New Member
Got lucky at the local JY today. Was able to find a 14 Bolt rear end from a 75 Chevy van, some camper special F350 beams/radius arms/spindles, and a new set of hood hinges. They are pulling the parts for me right now... so that means I will be able to get started on the new front suspension and rear axle after the 500.

Looks like the truck will be about 70" WMS in front and rear... with my wheel and tire selection that equals out to about 86-87" outside width.
 

philofab

New Member
Tonight I installed the license plate properly, as it was just zip tied on. I drew the bracket up real quick on the computer and had my friend Ray at Rayzor Sharp Plasma cut it out for me.

I also installed some sound deadening to try and quiet the cab down some. Did the inside of the doors and the roof before I ran out. Need to order some more for the floor and back of the cab.

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philofab

New Member
I'm leaving Friday for the 500 so these will have to wait until I get back to be disassembled and cleaned up.

The beams aren't the super burly high GVW camper special beams but they should be fine after plating. Rear end will get a spool, truss, shaved bottom, and large disk brakes. I plan to use some Wilwood Forged calipers coupled to 13.8" Dodge Ram 2500 rotors. The front will get a similar brake package. Hopefully this rear end is similar to a built 9" in weight when done. I will weight it when it's assembled for comparison purposes.

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philofab

New Member
Got my driveline back from Adam's in Henderson. I recommend them to anyone needing work done. They got my driveline done quickly without any BS. I had them retube it since it had a slight bend and install solid u joins (no zerk). When I upgrade the truck to 1350 or 1410 joints I will have them build the new shafts.

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Also fixed a small trans leak coming from the dipstick tube, did an oil change today, and replaced the drivers side header gasket.
 

philofab

New Member
So... been searching for a cab or complete truck as a donor. Found a cab in Reno but I am not sure I want to travel so far.

I also ended up ordering a set of Method 101 Race wheels, Glassworks 5pc front fiberglass, and Autofab 5" bulge rear glass. Probably going to pull the trigger on a new set of Mastercraft seats soon too.

Going to start stripping the truck ASAP and do the motor work while I have lots of room with cab and front clip off.
 

philofab

New Member
I am interested in body mount dimensions for 67-72 trucks, as I'd like to have aluminum pucks made. I may have to purchase a urethane kit to have something to measure.
 

philofab

New Member
New wheels showed up from Method.

Also, found a truck with a clean cab finally. Picking it up next week. I'm on the fence if I try to make time to cage it myself or just drop it off at a shop. All of the good shops seem to be back logged so I may not have a choice.

Got around to checking the gears in the new rear end. It has a 4.10 open diff. Going to order wheel studs, a spool, and some other bits and pieces for it tomorrow. It appears I will have to turn the OD of the hub down a little for the Dodge rotor I want to run to slip over. Only about .250 of material has to come off.

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philofab

New Member
Picked up a 71 for the cab. Came with lots of goodies I can sell or use.

While I was in Phoenix I stopped by SDHQ and purchased a bunch of stuff for the rebuild. Mainly a 14 bolt shave kit made by Ballistic Fab and a cool latch for my center console.

The floor in this truck is amazing, not even surface rust. There is a minor dent in the cowl and roof corner but those will be easy to repair.

Going to get the cab off and try and find a shop to cage it for me. With how hot it is here I don't want to do it myself. I may have the underside of the floor and back of cab rhino lined to try and keep the inside of the cab quiet.

Got lucky and this one has poly body mounts on it so I can measure them to have aluminum pucks made.

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philofab

New Member
Small update. I ordered fiberglass from Autofab, Glassworks Unlimited (after being warned by many), and Unlimited Products.

Autofab is already done with my bedsides and they are ready to pickup (In under two weeks), Unlimited Products should be done in another two weeks, and Glassworks has no idea I even ordered them.

So, should anyone have the flaired-fenders/Glassworks 5 piece kit they wish to sell please contact me. I don't have much faith in them.

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